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September will bring many new Feast Portland events to the area
New Feast Portland events will bring new dinners, lunches, and brunches as well as gatherings of the best local and national cookbook authors to hungry locals and visitors starting in September according to Portland Monthly Magazine.
The new lineup includes a wide variety of topics. The Feast Portland Cookbook Social will feature local and national authors, including Karen Brooks (The Mighty Gastropolis), Ivy Manning (Crackers & Dips: More than 50 Handmade Snacks), and Diane Morgan (Roots: The Definitive Compendium with More than 225 Recipes). There will also be a walk around food tasting and book signing.
For a more active approach to food, bicycle manufacturer Chris King will host a bike ride followed by brunch at the Cielo Salon. Guests can choose from either an easy or intense course before having brunch at 1 p.m. Brunch will feature food and drink from Antica Terra, Stumptown Coffee, and Base Camp Brewing.
Other events include a Dinner Series with Grüner's Chris Israel and SPQR's Matthew Accarrino with King Estate Winery and a Speaker Series about transparency and GMOs.
David Paige of Adelseim Vineyeard and Scott paul Wright of Scott Paul Wines will join Andrea Immer Robinsob, Master Sommeler, and wine expert Bruce Schoenfeld on the Clash of the Pinots: Oregon vs. The World panel.
‘Top Chef’ Season 18, Episode 3 Recap: Under African Skies
What’s this? I am not Portland Monthly food editor Katherine Chew Hamilton, nor am I PoMo arts editor Conner Reed I am not even, though I devoutly wish I was, our magazine’s esteemed food critic Karen Brooks (who, fun fact, was once a judge on Top Chef Masters, a sister program to that of which we are here to speak!).
But look, we have a magazine to make, and everyone is busy, and sometimes a mere news editor who happens to have a penchant for reality TV worms her way into the Top Chef rotation, okay?
I used to be a big Top Chef fan, but somewhere around the Seattle/Boston seasons of 2014/2015, I fe l l off the bandwagon. But I’m back, baby, for our very own Portland-set season, and three episodes in, I can’t remember why they lost me in the first place. To the recap!
We open with a quick shot of the Japanese Garden, looking picture-perfect, and then cut to Padma in the kitchen, with—hold the phone. Where did those bangs come from? I swear to God, she didn’t have them last week. Did she visit a stylist in Portland during filming? Do I need bangs? The likely answer is only if I can get Padma’s stylist to cut them.
Okay, onwards to the Quickfire Challenge, which this week is bought and paid for by Talenti Gelato™: the cheftestants have to make a dessert inspired by the company’s “layer s ” line. This is a missed opportunity for Oregon ice creameries, right? How did the Umpqua/Tillamook folks let them get away with this? (No shade to Talenti , but for the real best gelato in town, you want Pinolo Gelato on Division Street, obvs.)
If memory serves, the cheftestants never like making dessert. The smart ones have a few in their pocket that they perfect beforehand and whip out for Restaurant Wars, but that’s not so possible in a Quickfire. Still, everyone gets their game faces on, especially when Padma d rops that t he winner gets $10,000.
Local chef Sara Hauman gets going right away on a cream puff with grilled stra wberries and I *must* know if they were Hoods or Shuksans , and from which local farm they were sourced. (Partial to Unger Farms , myself.) Alp ine-food specialist Brittany Anderson embarks on a gingerbread trifle with rum, and I think she has maybe mistaken Top Chef for the Great British Bakeoff’s Christmas special, but you just know Padma would never be caught dead in one of Paul Ho llywood’s fugly holiday sweaters.
Chris Viaud, the classically French trained chef from New Hampshire, attemp ts to recreate Oregon in layers with a “hazelnut cake with blueberry and pinot noir puree and a chanterelle mushroom cream.” Judging from the quizzical looks on their faces, the judges are as skeptical as I am about this cha nterelle mushroom cream situation, and Viaud ruins the entire effect by calling the dish the “Ore-GONE trail.”
Ano ther potential standout for me from this round i s Detroit chef Kiki Louya , who produces a layered peach cobbler , but in the end the judges give it to the nerdy, endearing Ohio chef Avishar Barua, who started off the season with a bit of a flail but emerged this week as a dark horse competitor to watch. His entry is a layered take on the Ohio state dish, the buckeye, which sounds like a fancy Reese’s P eanut Butter Cup and prompts me to Google whether Oregon too has an official state dessert (We do! It’s marionberry pie, an excellent version of which is available at the Apple Valley Country Store in Hood River).
Padma plays it especially cool on this round, chewing her mouthful of buckeye for what seems like an eternity while fixing Avishar with a suspicious look, but eventually declares him the winner and he literally jumps for joy. See what I mean? Endearing. Louya and Anderson wind up on the bottom, along with chef Maria Mazon, who perhaps should not have fried her arroz con leche in panko?
The elimination challenge this week sends the chefs to some of Portland’s flagship pan-African restaurants to draw inspiration from the cuisine that has influenced flavors and culinary traditions all over the world. The y split into two groups, one captained by Portland chef, judge and former Top Chef runner-up Gregory Gourdet (sporting a leopard-print fur jacket that is both a weird choice for summer in Portland and cements his status as an absolute legend) and one led by hipster-glasses wearing judge, former contestant, chef, and author Kwame Onwuachi, who warns his team that they had better get ready to beat Gourdet’s crew.
The groups head to West African standout Akadi and Ya a d Style Jamaican in Northeast Portland, to Guyanese food cart Boke on the Run at the Hawthorne Asylum pod, and to grab Haitian food from the owner of Mathilde’s Kitchen , a food and beverage distributor based out of the Portland Mercado . Note that the filming of this season took place during the heights of the Black Lives Matter demonstrations in Portland last summer, and the chefs are all visibl y moved by the food they’re eating and the chance to spotlight it Stacked Sandwich chef Ga briel Pascuzzi has a telling aside at Akadi , saying he is “kind of embarrassed that I haven’t been here yet,” despite the fact that his own restaurant is less than three miles away.
Back in the kitchen, the chefs set to work (though not before Anderson allows the camera to film her morning self-affirmations/hype-up routine—why, Brittany, why?) . Viaud is aiming straight for Gourdet’s Haitian heart with his pan-fried snapper marinated in epis, and having recently been lucky enough to celebrate my husband’s birthday at Kann and gotten to try Gourdet’s epis -marinated Pacific Rockfish in pepper sauce, I make a note that Viaud better be on point .
What else among these dishes would I most want to eat , just based on conception and backstory ? Definitely Louya’s fufu, African-style cassava and plantain dumplings in beef-tomato-peanut saka-saka stew, based on a recipe handed down from her father, a native of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Perfectionist Houston chef Dawn Burrell’s braised goat curry with roti sounds like the best-ever dish on offer at a Feast Night Market event, and I’m officially crushing on Dominican chef Nelson German’s super-duper sexy baritone, so of course I’m all in on his piri-piri braised chicken with jerk-spiced yucca, sweet plantains and fava bean puree , a take on traditional Nigerian pepper stew.
Reality TV producers love to throw in red herrings, even on quality shows like Top Chef, so I’m suspicious when the camera lingers on Louya worrying about the texture of her fufu and Anderson nonchalantly declaring that she’s not a fan of spice, and adding a sploosh of coconut cream to tamp down the heat in her dish.
Sure enough, when they serve their dishes (this time in the dining room of Lovely Rita at the Hoxton — and let the record show that Padma’s bangs are now nowhere in e vidence . WAS IT A WIG ALL ALONG?), Anderson is dinged for a lack of depth in her sauce. The comments for Pascuzzi’s Oregon lamb dish, which he bills as a “red stew” while using finger quotes for no discernible reason, a re equally savage: Tom Colicchio is not a fan of his goat-cheese laced “designer mashed potatoes” while former Top Chef winner Richard Blais minces no words: “This dish is too white.” Also in the miss category is Viaud ’s epis, which Gourdet finds too try-hard, while Onwuachi is withering about Louya’s fufu, which are too starchy and cold (truly, that does not seem appetizing, much as I am Team Kiki.)
All is not lost though—Burrell’s on-the-bone braised goat and fondant potatoes, with a swipe of bright green pepper sauce on the side gets raves, including Blais’s take that it’s the first dish of the season for which he’d want the recipe. The judges also love Seattle chef Shota Nakajima’s black cod and cabbage in a tumeric-clove-allspice-yuzu sauce, which Gourdet notes "looked Japanese" when it hit the table, but revealed a sneaky level of heat, and Vegas chef Jamie Tran’s African-Vietnamese crispy snapper, turmeric couscous, heirloom tomatoes and pickles.
Burrell takes it at the final judging, and it is lovely to see her beam for perhaps the first time in the competition. Anderson, Louya and Viaud are not so lucky and wind up in the final bottom three (please note that Pascuzzi has clearly dodged a bullet by not being among them, given the sins of his mashed potatoes). T he comments for Anderson and Viaud in particular are brutal, but Anderson shoots herself in the foot by admitting that she “doesn’t know who I am as a chef,” and owning up to cooking with her head instead of her heart. Those are cardinal sins in the Top Chef universe, and she’s asked without fanfare to pack her knives and go.
Next week: looks like we’re headed to the Hood River Valley for an Oregon summer fruit-themed challenge and I cannot wait.
Scarpetta Reveals a New Chef’s Table Experience
Scarpetta, the Italian restaurant at the Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, now has a private dining experience with a six-course menu meant for parties of up to six. Scarpetta’s chef de cuisine Michael Vitangeli shares stories about the family recipes he serves at the chef’s table that sits between the view of the Fountains at Bellagio and the restaurant’s kitchen.
Vitangeli, a Las Vegas native, says he learned about his grandmother’s recipes starting at age 5 when he joined her in the kitchen. “The new chef’s table experience allows me the opportunity to welcome guests into my Italian kitchen and share the delicious and savory comfort of my family’s longstanding recipes,” he says in a press statement.
The $200 per person dinner features homemade burratta served with prosciutto, roasted bell peppers, cracked pepper, grissini, and super Tuscan olive oil scampi with homemade pasta, smothered jumbo prawns, heirloom tomatoes, capers, Vermentino wine, roasted garlic, and salmoriglio porchetta, a roasted pork belly with apple mostarda and horseradish crema and homemade canoli and torta della nona for dessert.
Parties of up to six guests can make reservations online.
Order baked goods online
The Bake Shop at Red Rock now has a new online cake ordering system that allows customers to work directly with the bakers to create fully customizable cakes, available for pick up starting at $50. To see a full list of cake options and prices, visit online or call 702-797-7500. In addition to cakes, The Bake Shop at Red Rock also offers cookies, pastries, cupcakes, and more.
Watch: The Secrets of the Phorrito Revealed
Located in Portland, Oregon at 28 NE 28th Ave., Tapalaya is combining the burrito and Vietnamese pho to make phorritos at two upcoming pop-ups. See the components come together in the video above, and taste it for yourself at Tapalaya this Wednesday, February 8, and Monday, February 13. Each night, chef Anh Luu, a 2016 Eater Young Guns nominee, will give the usual menu of New Orleans small plates a break to unleash phorritos, crawfish etoufee nachos, and more.
The phorrito is made by putting everything that’s in a bowl of pho inside a burrito. Luu braises beef brisket and uses the braising liquid to make a concentrated pho broth, or jus, flavored with star anise, cinnamon, fennel seed, coriander seed, fish sauce, and lime juice. Joining the brisket inside the burrito are rice noodles, fresh jalapeno, bean sprouts, Thai basil, hoisin, and sriracha. The jus is poured over and slightly absorbed by the noodles for a juicy, soup-like bite.
The phorrito pop-ups are first come, first serve. The restaurant does take reservations for parties of five or more. Get them before they’re gone.
Share All sharing options for: Inside the Best Portland Restaurant Where You'll Never Get to Eat
Multnomah Athletic Club, 1967 Multnomah Athletic Club
Since 1891, the Multnomah Athletic Club (MAC) has been the gathering place for Portland's well-heeled sports enthusiasts to see and be seen. It's the largest private athletic club in size in the world, and today, it boasts a membership of around 20,000 of Portland's wealthiest residents. In 2012, it recruited James Beard-awarded chef Philippe Boulot from downtown's historic The Heathman, where he had cooked for 15 years, and this year, a kitchen renovation costing around $2 million resulted in over 7,000 square feet of polished-stainless-steel improvements (this doesn't even include the kitchen's massive coolers and freezer boxes). Looking at the MAC's dining history reveals the dining history of Portland, and with Boulot's arrival, the MAC might now be serving some of the best food in the entire city. not that you can eat it.
Back when the MAC first opened, it really wasn't serving anything spectacular. Things like hum-drum chicken dinners were par for the course. The Club didn't even have a dining room in the 1890s, but members still eked out the good stuff. The MAC's "wheelmen" biked all the way out Gresham to attend strawberry fetes and to eat fried chicken at the long-gone Au-Ben, near Fairview. For special banquets, members visited the fine hotel dining rooms around town, like the Hotel Portland, once located in what is now Pioneer Courthouse Square.
One such banquet, held in 1903, highlighted the best of Northwest cuisine, with a Chinook salmon in Hollandaise sauce and oysters from Olympia. Another course of broiled teal ducks au Cresson (with watercress) would likely have been sourced entirely from Sauvie Island or Guild's Lake. And of course, the ever-present chicken dinner was also featured, served with French peas and corn fritters and prepared the way James Beard's father did for Sunday breakfasts: a là Maryland (fried and served with a cream gravy).
When the clubhouse was built, a dining room was added, and in 1919, it was enlarged. Early menus from the dining room reflect national dining trends that were also a là mode in Golden Age-Portland: creamy oyster stew various croquettes turtle prepared in a variety of styles relish trays of olives, almonds, and then-trendy celery. Naturally, Sundays featured a chicken dinner.
Some of the MAC's upper-crust members, like architect Emil Schacht, influenced dining outside of the Club. Schacht designed Astoria's city hall building and the Admiral Apartments on SW Park and Taylor, and he was such a man-about-town that the glamorous Hotel Portland named a seafood cocktail after him. A recipe for the appetizer appeared in the Neighborhood Cook Book (1912), published as a fundraiser by Portland's Council of Jewish Women.
From The Neighborhood Cook Book (1912)
Interestingly, the Club had many "dry" members, so Prohibition lasted at the MAC several years beyond the rest of the country. "Tavern service" was eventually added to the rec room for Seniors Night in 1937, the same year that a women’s lounge was added.
The 1940s were a period of significant development. The dining room and kitchen were updated, with a new cocktail lounge added soon after, and two private dining rooms were also added. German restaurateurs owned most of Portland’s fine-dining restaurants at the time, and accordingly, the MAC hired mostly German chefs. Billy Arnold was the Club’s chef in the 1950s, and he helped make it one of the "finest dining spots in this area," according to The Oregonian food writer Nancy Morris in 1955. But the food around this time was mostly predictable country club stodge: buffets of prime rib, ham, salmon, scalloped oysters, and the like, and daily luncheon specials of surf and turf, seafood combo platters, and "crab supreme." Maintaining its place on the menu, of course, was the chicken dinner —given the unsettling designation of "Plantation Fried Chicken" in 1961.
The MAC underwent new management in 2011, and it reconnected with its roots as a social club. A new culinary director was hired, and when Boulot officially joined the MAC in 2012, the Club's three eateries were undergoing a multi-million-dollar renovation. That's when big things started to happen. Normandy-born Boulot had trained under the culinary demigod Jöel Robuchon, and he shifted the MAC’s cuisine from boring country club fare to a menu focused on locally sourced ingredients, skillfully prepared by a team of both enthusiastic upstarts and seasoned experts. Sorry chicken-dinner fans, but it's officially off the menu.
Chef Philippe Boulot on the line at the Multnomah Athletic Club. [Photo: The Multnomah Athletic Club]
Between the Club's three separate dining areas, the MAC's 60 chefs are likely turning out some of the best food available in Portland, and likely at the highest volume of any restaurant anywhere in the state. Recent menus have featured things like Classic Willapa Bay Oyster Soufflé, Carlton Farm pork cheeks braised in apple cider, halibut coconut ceviche, and roasted rabbit saddle, stuffed with mushroom duxelle and coated with porcini dusted.
Unfortunately, the majority of Portland will never get to taste any of it—the dining areas are open only to Club members and their guests.
We commoners will always have our champagne wishes and caviar dreams, though.
—Article by Heather Arndt Anderson, author of Portland: A Food Biography
The kitchen crew at the Multnomah Athletic Club [Photo: The Multnomah Athletic Club]
The Kenny & Zuke's Chef Reveals How to Make His Much-Loved Hungarian Mushroom Soup
Few foods have the versatility of soups. They run the gamut from vegan to meat-laden, healthful to comfort food-rich. Some are complex and planned, others a fridge-cleaning-out hodgepodge of improvisation.
Everything I know about soup I learned while cooking in Paris, working under an old-school chef from Normandy who had spent a two-year apprenticeship doing nothing but preparing soups. He taught me about consommés and veloutes, thick porridges and light airy broths, stews and provincial porridges of vegetables and herbs. A master at extracting the maximum flavors from each ingredient, he passed his craft on to me.
I'd like to think the soups we make at my Jewish deli, Kenny & Zuke's, honor his legacy. And of those soups, there's no question about the most popular.
Our Hungarian mushroom soup has been on the menu since we opened, nearly a decade ago now. It has a loyal following that forbids ever removing it from the menu, even if we wanted to—which we don't.
Compared to many of the soups I learned in Paris, it's also a reasonably fast, easy and inexpensive recipe perfect for making at home. Willamette Week asked me to share the recipe.
3 large yellow onions, peeled and diced
2 peeled carrots, peeled and diced
3 ribs of celery, diced
1/2 pound of unsalted butter
2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic
2 pounds crimini or white mushrooms, sliced
3 tablespoons sweet Hungarian paprika
1 tablespoon dried thyme
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and black pepper to taste
In a large, heavy pot over medium heat, cook diced onions, carrots and celery in unsalted butter, until the vegetables are softened. Stir in garlic and cook for 5 minutes longer, stirring frequently. Season lightly with salt and black pepper, stirring occasionally. Don't allow the vegetables to color. Turn up the heat to medium-high and add mushrooms. Stir frequently until mushrooms are cooked through. Season again. Sprinkle with paprika and dried thyme. (Note: Thyme is one of the few herbs I think are good dried, but if you want to use fresh, use a bit more and add it toward the end.) Stir to mix well.
Turn the heat back to medium and sprinkle with flour. Stir well and keep stirring for 4 to 5 minutes while cooking, coating the mixture well and making sure the flour, which has now formed a roux with the butter, doesn't stick to the bottom of the pot and burn. Add 2 quarts of hot water and stir well. Bring to a simmer, stirring frequently, and cook for about 10 minutes or so. Add a cup of heavy cream and bring back to a simmer. Correct the seasoning and serve. Should serve up to a dozen people.
Note: There are some customizations you can do to make this a bit finer, such as adding some wild mushrooms into the mix, or a little dry sherry a few minutes before the soup is finished. Feel free.
Another note: You'll notice I season often. I don't really add any more salt than I would if I just seasoned all at once, but seasoning each element of a dish as you go along gives more layers to the flavor of your food.
Chef Todd English Reveals His Food Hall at Area15 With Dishes From His Global Empire
Chef Todd English gets ready to open his 6,500 square-foot food hall at Area15 on January 28. The Beast Food Hall originally opened at the 200,000-square-foot entertainment venue with interactive artwork as a pop-up in September, showcasing some of the food he plans to serve.
Unlike a food court that generally offers a variety fast-food national chains, a food hall mixes smaller artisan restaurants, much like Block 16 Urban Food Hall at the Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas offers Hattie B’s Hot Chicken out of Nashville, Lardo from Portland, Oregon, and more.
English set up the food hall as a test kitchen for his restaurants around the globe. Different stations focus on specific cuisines. Diners can find a wok station, burning station for Roman-style flatbreads, barbecue station, and even a vegan menu as well. English plans to rotate the menu, and chefs will bring different recipes that, if successful, will roll out to English’s restaurants worldwide.
Some of the teased dishes include tuna tartare wonton tacos, chile-lime watermelon salad, chilled shrimp, loaded fries with short rib ragu, Buffalo wings, and Korean chicken wings. One of the specialties, sliders, stuffs the smaller sandwiches with crispy chicken, cheeseburger, eggplant Parmesan, and barbecue short rib. The Beast Food Hall also offers a communal dining area complete with two bars.
The New TikTok Food Trend Is Cloud Bread, a Pillowy, Pastel Atkins Diet Staple
Well, things are happening on TikTok again. No, I’m not talking about the president’s executive order effectively banning the ByteDance-owned app from the U.S. starting September 20. What I am referring to on this here food site is CLOUD BREAD, the latest culinary trend sweeping the social video platform/national security threat.
Cloud bread, like previous viral trend dalgona coffee, is made first and foremost to look good as a moving picture. Exhibit A:
The bread is primarily made of three ingredients: egg whites, sugar, and cornstarch. It’s not dissimilar from meringue, which at its most basic is made from egg whites and sugar. Via Delish, here’s one common iteration of the cloud bread recipe:
To start, you need to separate three egg whites into a bowl and whip them up. When it’s frothy, add in 30 grams of sugar (about two-and-a-half tablespoons) and 10 grams of cornstarch (about one tablespoon). Whip the mixture until it becomes thick. Place it on a baking sheet in any shape you desire–people typically choose a bread-like dome shape. Place it into a 300-degree oven, and you’ll have beautiful cloud bread in about 25 minutes.
The result is a soft, round loaf that, when torn apart, reveals a pillow-like interior. Bonus points for adding a touch of food coloring, ideally in a hue pastel enough to fit the “cottagecore” aesthetic that’s so popular on TikTok nowadays. Some users have been adding vanilla, strawberry extract, sprinkles, or other flavor enhancers in an effort to mask a taste described by some as “rotten eggs.” Again, people, this trend is all about appearances, not about good food or preventing the unnecessary consumption of material resources.
Cloud bread started taking off on TikTok towards the end of July, with many attributing the recipe to user @linqanaaa. It’s worth noting that a different kind of cloud bread was a real thing long before this current TikTok version The Kitchn reports that that cloud bread was “first introduced to the world through the Atkins Diet” in the 1970s, and keto bloggers have routinely shared their recipes for that low-carb alternative over the past few years.
I know you’re just here to look at TikToks of cloud bread, so this is where I’ll leave you — with endless loops of bread pulls and tender fluff. Sure, man, enjoy:
Classic Maine Lobster Rolls: Kennebunkport’s hottest (and most hotly debated) food
This recipe and article comes to us from Barbara Gulino: media spokesperson, guest chef on Portland Maine’s WCSH6 and food blogger. Barbara blogs at The Spirited Cook and will be sharing her inside scoop on recipes for TABLE that are perfect for summer living in Maine.
When I first moved to Maine many years ago, Brooklyn girl that I was, I thought a lobster roll was a Chinese egg roll made with lobster instead of shrimp.
Clearly, I have come a long way in 29 years.
A true Maine lobster roll is a celebration of summer, and not meant to compete with too many other ingredients. This is where many a cook has strayed—adding an assortment of things, in various shades of green and otherwise – aromatic herbs, shredded lettuce, olives, capers, and even more horrifyingly, stuff like chipotles and mango, all in the vein of making it better, missing the point that a lobster roll is all about the lobster and nothing else.
Perhaps a small amount of finely chopped celery is okay. This addition is hotly debated amongst lobster roll purists.
A few chives on top can add contrast (if you need to get all fancy-like), but steer clear of the shredded lettuce route. It is disappointing to find lettuce lurking under the lobster in the roll. It is used to make the roll look fuller than it actually is. A little bit of mayonnaise is required to bind the lobster together. My favorite is Stonewall Kitchen’s Farmhouse Mayo – flavorful and seasoned with enough salt that I find I don’t need to add more.
Lastly, the griddled New England-style hot dog roll is part of the charm. They were honestly an ingredient I didn’t pay a whole lot of attention to until I discovered the sturdier, larger and made-from-scratch-version baked by Mainly Grains in South Portland.
My lobster roll game is on! What I really want is a roll that can hold MORE lobster not less.
These rolls only need to be gently sliced apart which reveals their beautiful sides perfect for buttering and griddling resulting in a perfectly crispy-sided warm roll, and piled with lobster.
The best and most efficient time to make lobster rolls is the day after a traditional lobster bake or boiled lobster. Toss a few extra lobsters in to steam, refrigerate overnight, remove the meat and try to keep a few pieces of claw meat intact for an eye-catching garnish, but if you can’t, no big deal. Slice the tail meat in half length-wise and cut into chunks.
These fat and pudgy rolls allow for a generous ¼-pound portion each. Serve with sides of coleslaw and potato chips and hopefully a dose of sunshine.
This is, (I am quite certain) “The Way a Lobster Roll Should Be.”
Share All sharing options for: Federal Donuts’ New Cookbook Reveals All
“Mmm, doughnuts. Is there anything they can’t do?” Homer Simpson’s famous quote kicks off Federal Donuts: The (Partially) True Spectacular Story, the new cookbook from the team behind one of America’s most promising casual restaurants.
(L to R) Michael Solomonov, Steven Cook, Tom Henneman, Bobby Logue, Felicia D’Ambrosio Michael Persico
Federal Donuts, the Philadelphia-based doughnut and fried chicken shop, is the brainchild of five entrepreneurial food obsessives from very different backgrounds: Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook, who run the restaurant group CooknSolo (Zahav, Dizengoff), and their partners in Federal Donuts and Rooster Soup Co., Tom Henneman, Bobby Logue, and Felicia D’Ambrosio.
Their unlikely concept — a casual cafe that serves fried chicken, cake doughnuts, and coffee — has taken off and now has a cult following. But it wasn’t always smooth sailing. Once they’d agreed on the concept, they realized that no one on the team knew how to make doughnuts. “Once we settled on donuts, I was like, ‘How do you make donuts?’” Cook writes, noting he remembers “Googling ‘donut machine.’”
Eventually Cook and Solomonov did buy a doughnut machine — from a guy in a Roy Rogers’ parking lot seven hours outside of Philly — and learned that the secret to good cake doughnuts is to add “more butter and sugar.” Still, the founders admit to having some fear of failure early on.
“Right before the opening, I remember thinking, I just threw away a $7,000 investment and I’m okay with that,” Cook writes. But then on opening day, an hour in, “we were in the fucking weeds,” Solomonov writes. “And our batter wasn’t good. The donuts kept breaking in half on the flipper part of the Robot. ” The pressure was on.
“And there was a line of 50 to 75 people waiting for chicken,” D’Ambrosio recalls. When the cooks couldn’t keep up with the orders, the team decided to give the food away on that first day of service.
“We got a standing ovation from everybody when we said, ‘Chicken’s free!’” Logue writes, “The whole line screamed and applauded.”
Somehow, despite the early set backs, some serious hate mail (which they reveal inside the book), and several recipe tweaks, the original shop is still standing and there are three additional locations in Philadelphia, one in Miami, and more on the way — and now, a cookbook full of memories and recipes.
Excerpted fromFederal Donuts. Copyright © 2017 by Mike Solomonov and Steve Cook. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.
How You Eat a Slice of Pizza Reveals a Lot About Your Personality
We all know there’s more than one way to eat a slice of pizza. Some people actually use utensils, some go for the crust first, some of us are advocates for folding, and others just bite in without contemplating the many possibilities of pizza eating.
Patti Wood, a renowned body language and human behavior expert who teaches at Emory University, recently shared her insight with Redbook Magazine and the world at large on just how many ways there are to attack a deliciously cheesy, melty slice (there are exactly four, if you’re wondering). And she explained what those methods reveal about the eaters’ personalities.
Wood is often consulted by media and tabloids to weigh in on celebrity body language, determining from Beyoncé's or Jay Z’s stance and expressions whether they're on the brink of divorce, for example. But apparently her same method can just as easily be applied to the average person and his or her favorite way to chow down on a cheap slice of pizza.
Wood’s four approaches to pizza eating correspond to four personality types: drivers, influencers, supporters and careful correctors. Each personality type (and its corresponding pizza-eating tactic) is laid out below. Where do you fall on Wood’s pizza-and-personality scale?
Drivers: Drivers, ostensibly those of us who fold our favorite slice before digging in, are motivated risk-taking individuals and adventurous multitaskers. Drivers eat their pizza in the most-efficient way possible (but may also be unaware of savoring the smaller pleasures in life).
Influencers: They’re the ones who munch on the crust before devouring the more delicious part of the pizza. People who eat pizza this way, according to Wood’s study, like to be the center of attention. They talk loudly and often, and they may cause a little drama in order to catch the eyes and ears of everyone in the room.
Supporters: The most polite of the bunch, supporters apparently have more manners than the rest of us, and they prefer to eat pizza with a knife and fork. But really? Who are these people who eat the world’s favorite finger food with cutlery? According to Wood’s personality assessment, these people do exist, and they actually make great party hosts because they’re major people-pleasers. They’re also “loyal, reliable and resilient,” so it sounds like they’d actually make pretty good friends — if you can ever get over the fact that they really eat pizza with a knife and fork.
Careful Correctors: Counterintuitively, these folks just jump right in and bite into their pizza without a second thought. According to Wood, though, these people are perfectionists they know their method of pizza eating works just fine, and they don’t want to mess with a good thing.